Representing Markets: The shaping of fashion trends by French and Italian fabric producers

In this paper, we use ethnographic methods to describe the market making activities of Première Vision, Paris, the leading trade fair in the clothing fabric industry. Through collective action and powerful representational practices, Première Vision's exhibitors affirm their style innovation and position themselves as trend setters. Our study extends the emerging literature on market forms and marketing practices by (i) introducing a different lens, based on the ideas of postmodern theorists, through which the nature of representation in industrial markets may be viewed and (ii) addressing the role of self-interested theorists, i.e. marketers who theorize about the market and its functioning in ways that are self-beneficial. Our paper also has implications for trade fair literature, which is mostly concerned with individual exhibitors' value appropriation strategies. The case of Première Vision shows that trade fairs may be considered as collective marketing instruments, thus highlighting the importance of organizers' value creation strategies.